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Where the Rio Grande Is Born

DATE POSTED:September 2, 2026
Meltwater flowing into Pole Creek before it joins the Rio Grande.Digital subscribers can listen to this article. Subscribe today for unlimited access to Texas Monthly. Already a subscriber? Log in. Some 10,000 feet up in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, we were trying to ford a stream whose waters had not long before been snow clinging to the surrounding peaks. Now the meltwater had become a steely, icy torrent, and we needed to get across. I held my pack above my head, caught my breath, and stepped in. As the cold rushed up the small of my back, I gasped.Standing in the swift current, I took a moment to consider my predicament. If I slipped and fell—with my sleeping quilt, tent, and spare clothes—it might not matter if I avoided getting swept down the…

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