Woody Taptto wouldn’t have been in Palo Duro Canyon last month, shaking a metal rattle to the pulsing beat of a drum, if history had played out just a hair differently. The 83-year-old was among the eldest of two dozen dancers gathered at a pavilion on the canyon floor for the gourd dance, a Southern Plains tradition with roots going back to at least the nineteenth century. Taptto wore a blue broadcloth vest and a beaver-skin hat bearing the U.S. Marine Corps insignia as the setting sun rimmed the canyon with a pink line of fuzzy, fading light. Just two years ago, the resident of Albuquerque, New Mexico, traded regalia and rattle for a hospital gown; a bad fall caused an aggressive infection in his…