The Great Pig War of Matagorda County

During the COVID-19 pandemic, some people baked sourdough bread. Others worked in their garden or learned a new instrument. Ben Flores and An Huynh began raising 250-pound hogs.  The idea came together during a 2017 vacation to Spain, where the Austin couple sampled jamón ibérico, a cured, acorn-fed pork prized for its delicate marbling and rich flavor. The ham, which can retail for more than $1,000 a leg, is made from pigs that are humanely raised according to strict standards set by the Spanish government. “You can see the end result when you taste it,” Huynh said. Flores, an intensely earnest cybersecurity consultant, had grown bored with his deskbound life in Austin. He dreamed of getting back to nature, of working with his hands. Unfortunately,…

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