This Galveston Taqueria Reopened With a New Owner and Chefs but Hasn’t Captured the Magic of the Original

When I spoke to Dayatra Myers-Hurt in September of last year about her restaurant, Fish Company Taco, in Galveston, I didn’t expect it to close a month later. In our interview, she did mention that her small taqueria wasn’t even making enough money to install air-conditioning, but the excellent food—especially the rotating catch of the day and nixtamalized tortillas—was worth the uncomfortable perspiration. When I dined there, a large family came in to celebrate someone’s graduation from Texas A&M University at Galveston, and no one complained about the heat. But, sadly, the operating costs were too much to handle. The small shack selling fresh fish in exquisite tortillas of heirloom corn was gone. I was saddened to see a small business close. I was also disappointed…

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