A Famous Barbacoa Trailer Just Rolled into Austin

Last month, El Grandpa Barbacoa, which specializes in barbacoa de borrego made from whole lambs, left its original location outside Georgetown and opened in South Austin. Thankfully, it was a simple move, as it operates from a massive mobile rig that is slightly nontraditional.Barbacoa is customarily cooked in a hole in the ground, or en pozo, which allows the surrounding earth to act as an insulator. Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que, in Brownsville, is the last bastion of the cooking style in Texas, as it’s the only restaurant in the state still legally permitted to cook this way, thanks to a grandfather clause in the city’s  health regulations. Despite its name, El Grandpa Barbacoa doesn’t benefit from such a provision and was forced to find a compromise.…

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