The brisket at Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, in Pilot Point, was so good last year that I had to write a review, even if the business wasn’t at full strength yet. CJ and Sabrina Henley were serving a small menu from a food truck parked next to their brick-and-mortar, which was under renovation at the time. They prepared sides and smoked meats off-site at a commissary kitchen. Last summer, the couple finally received approval to build a new pit room big enough for their thousand-gallon offset from Big Phil’s. It was completed last September, and the dining room was ready for customers in November. I stopped in on a recent Saturday to see the new digs and try the expanded menu. The Henleys are Muslim,…