Spots like Clinton St. Baking Co., Bubby’s, and Tom’s Restaurant in Prospect Heights may have been the pioneers of covetable pancakes, but just about eight years ago, when Sunday in Brooklyn and Chez Ma Tante both opened their doors, the news spread like hazelnut syrup over a pile of malted flapjacks: The pancakes are coming, the pancakes are coming. These days, the brunch favorites are doing the most. Like the chef burgers of yore, a great pancake can become a restaurant’s calling card: They can be the most over-the-top, the most praised, the most talked about, and the most posted. “Between Chez Ma Tante and Golden Diner, there’s so much buzz even internationally,” says Erika Kwee, a.k.a. the Pancake Princess, who has tried them all. With the new guard of griddle cakes, the leavening is fancier, ricotta’s out while Greek yogurt’s in, masa is the new flour, and seasonal fruit is something of a must.
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