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Beefbar Is the Strangest New Steakhouse in New York

DATE POSTED:April 24, 2024
Photo: Tammie Teclemariam

Despite New York’s dozen-plus name-brand steakhouses — LugerKeensCoteGallaghers, on and on — there is one thing this city has never had: a Beefbar. The Monaco-based chain, which operates outposts around the globe (Tbilisi and Bahrain are coming in 2025), moved into the original Nobu space earlier this month and brought many of its quirky signatures to town. Is it a worthy addition to Manhattan’s meat-heavy scene, or is this just Europe’s answer to Outback, luxed up to lure the jet set away from Cipriani or, yes, Nobu? There are no Bloomin’ Onions on the menu, but — as Tammie Teclemariam and Matthew Schneier discovered — there are emoji plates and Wagyu quesadillas. 

Tammie Teclemariam: When I first heard about the restaurant, my interest rose at the potential of a Monégasque restaurant and then quickly fell upon learning that it was a steakhouse “inspired by American beef” and not an ode to F1 tailgating. The culture inside of Beefbar can only be described as “Beefbar.” I was seated by tables speaking French and Arabic, but the bar seemed to be full of Americans. Did you go to the bar?

Matthew Schneier: Yes. I was ushered through the dining room into the bar, which I remember as Nobu Next Door in its previous iteration. I had a Waldorf-salad-themed martini.

TT: I couldn’t help but notice the presence of a $35 cocktail on the menu called “Little Tortilla Boy.” That was my first clue that this was going to be a chaotic experience. I was like, How did this get through?

MS: That’s where you see the European influence, I think — in the embarrassing nomenclature more than in the mixology.

TT: The actual bar was very dramatic, but the seating around the bar felt like a Holiday Inn. They only sell four food items at the bar. I got some gyoza and Wagyu spring rolls. They were fine, but also pointless.

MS: Each Beefbar evidently offers locally specific menu items. Or at least locally specific china: I noticed the plates had the Statue of Liberty and a Big Apple stamped on them.

TT: The cow on my appetizer plate was cute and on-theme, but the